MACAW

MACAW NATURAL HISTORY

APPEARANCE
Macaws are among the most spectacular of nature's offerings. If hummingbirds are the rainforest's jewels, macaws are the masterpieces. These birds' bright colors flash through the rainforest like splashes across a painter's canvas. Among the twenty or so recognized species, every color of the rainbow is represented. What sets macaws apart from their cousins, the parrots, are:
(1) Geographical location (macaws are found only in the Neotropics)
(2) Large size (even the smallest macaw is bigger than all but the biggest parrots)
(3) Featherless skin around the facial area
(4) Long pointed tail
(5) Gaudy plumage

Like other parrots, macaws have strong, curved bills that are capable of breaking open the toughest nuts. Their feet have four toes, in two opposed pairs to grip branches.

Their varied environment, long lives and complex social structure may account for the high intelligence of these animals. Some researchers assert that parrots are capable of understanding human speech, resulting in the ability for limited conversation. However, the jury is out on the extent to which macaws understand the meaning of their human-taught vocalizations.

HABITAT AND DISTRIBUTION
Macaws are found in a wide variety of habitats from forest to arid regions, but are most numerous and rich in species in lowland tropical rainforest. They prefer floodplains but some species range to 5000 feet, in particular always being quite close to water. In the neotropics, macaws range into Central America and down to northern Argentina.

FEEDING AND DIET
In the wild, macaw staples are fruit and nuts. Their powerful beaks are capable of cracking open the hardest nuts, giving them access to food unavailable to other animals. Mornings and evenings these birds commute long distances between favorite roosting and feeding sites, one of the great spectacles of the rainforest—the best chance to see them in the wild.

Like other parrots, macaws feed in groups. Among their favorite foods are palm nuts, hard fruits accessible to the macaws by virtue of their powerful bills. Besides fruiting trees, the birds' communal feeding stations include exposed river banks, which provide river clay that the birds consume as a dietary supplement. The clay licks, like macaw vitamin pills, help keep the birds in optimum health. While scientists aren't 100% sure why the birds visit these sites, they are frequent and regular visitors. One scientist counted over 350 red-and-green macaws visited a single clay lick, using it every other day or so.

BREEDING
Macaws, like some other large parrots, mate for life. Within larger flocks, you'll see pairs flying together. Breeding attempts are made yearly, and the female lays two to four eggs. The blue-and-yellow macaw lays its eggs in the cavity of a dead palm tree, particularly the aguaje palm, Mauritia flexuosa. This strategy limits nest sites because a dead palm will last less than four years before it rots and falls over.

Macaws are slow breeders and have low reproductive rates in the wild. Predators and parasites kill many chicks so that less than two-thirds of nests result in young that fledge. Only one young is fledged even when successful. Often the young die of starvation despite the apparent abundance of food.

Scientists are trying to understand the limiting factors in the parents' feeding behavior that limits their ability to provide food to the additional chicks. After hatching, the young take several months to fledge, and many often fail at this stage, falling victim to waiting predators while learning the difficult task of navigating the complex environment.

CONSERVATION
Kricher (1997) suggests that macaws provide a opportunity for ecotourism due to their popularity. Given the difficulty of seeing animals in the rainforest, the habit of macaws to congregate on clay embankments is a unique chance to see these charismatic animals in the open and at leisure. Several species regularly visit the clay licks, including those most sought after by ecotourists.

Kricher cites a study that showed each macaw could generate over $4,000 a year in tourist revenue. Given the long lives of macaws, each bird could potentially be worth $150,000 in tourist dollars. Such "no-brainer" economics speak clearly to the need to conserve the birds' populations and natural habitat.

As their habitat inexorably diminishes, so the populations of Amazon macaws will undoubtedly decline. After habitat loss, the main threat to macaws is hunting for their feathers. The long tail feathers are popular for use in headdresses and other handicrafts. (Photo of macaw feather headdress.) Although Amazon Indians have historically used feathers in costumes and headdresses, this is less of a danger than deforestation.

Collection for the pet trade is not as big threat as it was before prohibitions were put on the export and import of the birds. Today, commerce is strictly controlled. However, illegal collecting continues.

None of the lowland rainforest species is in imminent danger of extinction, but most macaws are at risk and their trade is controlled by the CITES listing. All Amazon species are list as CITES or II. The hyacinth macaw and one or two other macaw species of open grassland are endangered. One species of macaw, Spix's macaw (Cyanopsitta spixii) from northeastern Brazil, is believed extinct in the wild (Butchart et al., 2003). We can only hope that other species will not suffer the same fate.

Breeding Macaw Basics
by AZAANATHAR

If you enjoy the relationship that you have with your bird the concept of whether to breed it might one day be a consideration. Macaws are such socially interactive birds that many people delight in having more than one as a pet. Breeding often becomes a natural evolution in that relationship. Before you decide to breed your pet bird, talk it over with other people that have done the same so that you understand what breeding really means.

Unlike breeding mammals, for instance a dog or a cat, the breeding of parrots takes on a more substantial commitment. Unlike breeding dogs, macaws form long term commitments to their mates. So once a good pair bond is formed, it is generally not desirable to break up the birds. In addition, male birds cannot be used for stud services, fertilizing the eggs and then being removed back to his role as a pet. Nor in turn can the female be used for hatching out a clutch, then returned to her former pet status. So once the commitment is made to use your pet bird as a breeder and find it a mate, you have made a commitment to bred that bird, normally for the rest of its life.

Besides committing the bird to breeding, you are also committing yourself to that experience as well. Breeding birds is not for everyone. Macaw nestlings are what ornithologists term "altricial", that is , unlike a chicken which is born with plenty of down and able to eat on it's own, macaws are virtually helpless when first hatch and require vast amounts of care from their parents or surrogate humans.

Species Type

If you already have a particular species of macaw, in all likelihood that is what you will want to start breeding. After all, you already went through the decision process at an earlier date, and obviously enjoyed your choice otherwise you would probably not want to breed. Which ever species you choose, choose one that really excites you and that you would want to own even if you were never successful breeding.

Here are a few of the more commonly bred species.

Blue and Gold Macaws

Captive bred birds have proven to be relatively easy to breed and are a good way to start. Their beautiful coloring and their easy going nature has given them a well deserved reputation as a good pet. They are perhaps the most commonly bred macaw in the United States. We have bred these as early as two and a half years old.

Scarlet Macaws

The vivid red, yellow and blue coloration never ceases to grab attention. These birds are also easy for beginner breeders and once they start breeding are fairly reliable. Two handfed birds that I raised had fertile eggs and subsequent nestlings at two and a half years old. Once they begin courtship and breeding they can become quite aggressive towards humans as well as their own mate. This is normal and usually passes once breeding season is over. There are three different types OF Scarlet Macaws; a scarlet red with a wide band of yellow on the wing that typically comes from Central America, a second, deeper red coloration which has a narrow yellow band tipped in green on the wing, and a third large variety that has a yellow wing band tipped in royal blue with royal blue flight feathers replacing the more common navy blue.

Military Macaws

These primarily green macaws continue to grow in popularity and with good reason. They are extremely amicable and enjoy interacting with human. They are not as large as the Blue and Gold, Scarlet or Green-winged and many people prefer a slightly smaller bird such as this. Fewer Military's are being bred compared to the Blue and Gold and Scarlet creating a demand for babies. There are at least two varieties of Military Macaws. The more commonly seen in the United States has the overall green coloration and a narrow brown bib on the throat patch. And a second, very rare Military Macaw from Bolivia that has a brown bib that extends down onto the chest area. Few of this last type are bred in the United States.

Green-winged Macaws

These birds are also primarily red, but a deeper more crimson red with a green band on the wing. These have grown enormously in popularity in the last few years for two reasons. First, they are being bred more consistently then in the past. Second, they have been found to be extremely intelligent birds to interact with. There are two varieties of Green-winged Macaws. The first is larger than a Scarlet or a Blue and Gold in the 1200-1400 gram range in weight. The second is a huge, Hyacinth sized bird that routinely gets to be in the 1400 to 1600 gram range when mature. This latter group have large bodies and heads equal to a Hyacinth Macaw in size. Despite their size, they are gentle giants.

Basic Breeding Requirements

Breeding Stock

It is imperative that the would be breeder find the best possible birds for his breeding facility. The selections does not include the unsuccessful discards of other breeding facilities salvaged, poor quality birds or drastically reduced birds (which usually means problems). What it does mean is finding the best quality, healthy birds of the species you are interested in breeding.

Searching for these birds will take some time and diligent effort as all birds are not created equal. If at all possible, go and see the birds you are interested in buying. Especially if the person selling them is someone unfamiliar to you. Unfortunately this is not always possible. If you are unable to go to the birds, ask for references and contact those people to determine if these are the type of people that might be good to do business with.

Common Terminology

Don't be in a rush. More mistakes are made by people that are anxious that they found the male or female they have been looking for. This is especially true with the "proven pair" syndrome. For newcomers that might not be familiar with all the terms here are some you might encounter. "Proven Pair" means that the pair of birds produced eggs or young at sometime in their life. "Producing pair" implies that the birds have recently produced either eggs or young. "Bonded pair" just means that the birds appear to be compatible with each other (this does not assure that they will necessarily breed or are of the opposite sex). Proven or producing pairs normally cost far more than two separate birds of the opposite sex as it is assumed that these birds will breed faster than, lets say, a bonded pair.

Choosing a Seller

Ask questions of the seller to determine as much information as to what housing conditions the birds are in, the environment (indoors or outdoors), their diet, and overall feather and health condition. If the seller seems uncomfortable answering your questions before the sale, it is unlikely that they will get any better after you have the bird. For some experienced buyers this might not be so important, however, newcomers might need more information or at least be guided to where they can find answers to their questions. We have answered so many questions from our own clients and others over the years that five years ago I put together "The Macaw Care Guide" for our clients which answers the more common questions. Most owners will write out the diet fed to the bird if asked along with some helpful hints.

Determining Health Status

Whether you are interested in just a pet bird or a breeder, it is advisable to request some type of health check prior to your receiving the bird. We recommend a complete physical, blood work, cultures from the throat and vent and a chlamydia screen done by an avian veterinarian. In addition, you might wish some of the new viral screens to be done on your bird for PBFD and Papovavirus. This will add a couple of weeks on to your receiving the bird, but might be a worthwhile investment. Each breeder or seller has their own policies regarding how they sell their birds. Some automatically include health testing in the price of the bird. For the buyer this has a great advantage in that an initial screening was done. Should you wish to still have a follow up exam by your own veterinarian when the bird arrives, then the bird has two chances to discover any potential problems.

Not all bird owners are willing to have the bird veterinarian checked for you. In those cases it might be advisable for you to have some type of contract that allows you a specified amount of time for your own avian veterinarian to examine the new bird, with the stipulation that the bird can be returned if the bird has an incurable problem or a major anatomical defect. An example would be if you had purchased a bird for breeding only to discover it had a viral disease, was the wrong sex or perhaps was ancient and likely unbreedable. The time frame for return should be short to protect both the buyer and the seller, commonly 48-72 hours is suitable to most people.

Quarantine

It is always wise to separate you new bird from any other birds you might have for a period of thirty to forty five days. You should discuss this with your veterinarian prior to getting your bird. Make sure a special area has been set aside for your new bird. Switching homes is stressful for even the most hardy, even tempered of birds. Careful attention should be paid to them during this quarantine period to insure that they are eating and adjusting to their new environment. It is helpful to know if there were any special food that the bird enjoyed at its old home and provide them for them now. Stress from the move might bring latent diseases that might not have shown themselves before. Despite your being anxious to introduce the new bird to a new mate, fight the urge to break this quarantine period.

Housing

Due to their large size and powerful mandibles, macaws require special housing. The larger the structure the better. For breeding purposes we house each pair of our macaws in an outdoor aviary eight foot wide by twelve foot long by eight feet high. This allows them room to fly and play. A shelter area four foot wide by eight foot high by four foot deep provides shelter from the heat or cold. The nest box and their feed bowls are inside this shelter. Larger flights of twenty or more feet have been used successfully by some breeders. Larger housing also minimizes their interest in destroying their aviary. Small cages where they are bored can lead to their destroying the wire and their possible escape. The concept that if too much space is provided the birds will not breed is false. More room encourages a healthy, well exercised pair and long term breeding success.

In a home situation, macaws are best housed in the largest space available. Their powerful mandible can eventually break all but the most sturdy cage welds. Specially designed cages should ideally be large enough for them to open their wings and have ample room for their tail or head without hitting any cage surface. Their feeding and water trays need to be quite large in order to accommodate their large mandible and head. Bowls that are eight to ten inches in diameter are ideal as the birds can see the variety of food available and access it easily. Because of their immense size, proper housing is sometimes difficult to find.

In addition to commercially available housing, some owners have built beautiful environments for their macaws. They may incorporate enclosing a porch, building a backyard aviary or remodeling a room in their home to properly house the bird. Some have even incorporated waterfalls, rope swings, and wooden jungle gyms as play items. This type of environment is not only more stimulating and healthy for the bird, but more enjoyable for their owners. Watching them swinging from a cotton rope, bathing in a small pool under a waterfall, or climbing all over a wooden structure is much more enjoyable then seeing them in a small cage.

Diet

Throughout the birds growing process and prior to breeding the bird should have a well balanced diet. An ideal diet would include, seeds, nuts, fruits, vegetables and possibly some form of pellet diet as a supplement. They must be on a good diet long before you see the first egg to insure optimal fertility. Extra calcium is often needed in the hen's diet and a good natural source for calcium is almonds. Nuts are readily eaten by macaws.

Breeding

The decision to breed any animal should be made with great care. Breeding requires a great deal of commitment, time and expense. Blue and Golds, Scarlets, Militarys and Greenwings would likely produce young faster and more reliably than Buffon's or Hyacinth Macaws. I would suggest that a beginner start with some of the easier species first to determine whether this is really what they want to do. Many macaws are produced that are not good breeding potential. You want to find healthy, full sized birds that have been raised by long time breeders that will stand behind their birds.

Our most consistent breeding success from macaws has come from captive bred stock. Some of these birds we raise ourselves and some were raise by other aviculturists. When we were initially putting together our breeding stock in the mid 1970's there was only wild caught stock available. Thankfully, by the early eighties, some breeding success had been achieved in the United States and we were able to acquire some captive bred stock. Many of the older wild caught pairs took far longer (as much as four years longer) to breed as did the captive bred birds. The captive bred birds were also much calmer and more adaptable to new situations. In the long run it may be better for aviculturists to acquire young captive bred macaws and wait the three to four years necessary for them to breed. The initial cost is less and the long term breeding may be more advantageous.

Conclusion

Buyers should look for captive bred closed banded birds as these will undoubtedly be the cornerstone for future and long term captive breeding programs. As previously mentioned, these captive bred birds are the best way to acquire pet or breeding stock. Potential buyers should be warned that low prices are rarely a bargain and high prices do not necessarily insure a healthy bird. Ask for references and contact them. Require a successful health check as part of the purchase of the bird. If at all possible, see the bird before you purchase it. And lastly, buy from people that you can trust. If they are unwilling to help you before you get the bird, it is unlikely that they will help you after you have it. It is a big investment, take your time in finding the right bird.

This bit of information was brought to you by:
BY AZAANATHAR


COCKATIEL

HISTORY   

Cockatiel – Nymphicus hollandicus

Natural history

Cockatiels originate from the non-coastal regions of Australia. The free-ranging population is very large, and the IUCN lists this species’ conservation status of “least concern”. Cockatiels probably represent the smallest of the cockatoos, although there is some controversy surrounding this classification. Cockatiels are common as aviary birds and they make excellent pets.

Taxonomy

ClassAves

OrderPsittaciformes

FamilyPsittacidae

Nymphicus hollandicus

 

Physical description

The cockatiel is a small parrot (approximately 32 cm or 12.5 in) with an erectile crest and long retrices or tail feathers.

Coloration

The standard or wild type cockatiel is predominately grey with yellow, orange, and white accents. Many color mutations exist including lutino, cinnamon, fallow, whiteface, pied, silver, olive, yellowcheek, and pearl.

Sexual dimorphism

Male cockatiels have yellow foreheads, throats, crests and cheek patches with orange ear coverts. Females have much less yellow and a barred pattern underneath the wings. Males have solid black plumage under their wings. 
Sexual dimorphism is most obvious in the standard or wild type cockatiel. Until maturity at 6 months of age, coloration will resemble that of a female including yellow or white bars on the ventral surface of the wings.

Diet

  • Cockatiels are granivores and frugivores. Free-ranging birds feed on grass seeds, grains, berries, and other fruits.
  • Feed companion birds a varied diet to decrease the likelihood of obesity.
  • Since psittacines hull seeds before ingestion, they do not require grit. In fact, some individuals will overeat grit when ill putting them at risk for impaction.
  • All-seed diets are deficient in protein, vitamins, and minerals including calcium and vitamin A.

Husbandry

  • Provide frequent water baths or showers to maintain normal skin/feather quality and to help control powder down dust.
  • Cages should be at least 20-24 in (50-60 cm) long and wide.
  • Perch diameter should be approximately 5/8 and 1.5 in (1.6-3.8 cm). Provide at least two perches placed far enough apart that the cockatiel can fly or glide. Sand paper perch covers are very abrasive to the feet, and are not recommended.
  • Cage bar spacing of 0.5-0.75 in (1.3-1.9 cm) is recommended.

Behavior

  • Cockatiels are sociable birds.
  • Cockatiels can have traumatic “night frights” which usually involve the bird thrashing around its cage in extreme fright.
  • Foraging is an important part of normal daily parrot activity. Teach and encourage pet birds to play and forage.

Normal physiologic values

Resting heart rate (beats/min)

Approximately 206

 

Respiration (breaths/min)

40-50

 Temperature (average)*Approximately 41.8°C107.1°F

Body weight (g)

80-125

Average 90

Mean life span  (years)

12-15

Up to 25y has been reported.Sexual maturity (months)6-12 Weaning age (days)47-52Parent-raised chicksFledgling (days)32-38 Mean Incubation (days)19-21Both the male and the female incubate the eggs.Number of eggs laid per clutch

3-8

Average 5

Weaning age (days)

42-52

 

Water intake (average)13.6 ml/day

Considerable individual variation exists

Target environmental temperature

Mimic natural environment.

Household temperatures of 70-80°F (21-27°C) are generally acceptable, however healthy birds can tolerate hot and cold temperatures.

*A routine avian exam does not include measuring body temperature.

Anatomy and physiology

Anatomic traits of Order Psittaciformes include:

  • Communication of the right and left nasal sinus
  • The only avian tongue with intrinsic muscles
  • Simply syrinx
  • Craniofacial hinge of beak is a synovial joint
  • Ceca absent
  • Gall bladder often absent
  • Zygodactyl foot: two toes pointed backward and two pointed forward

Restraint

Cockatiels may be restrained by holding the head between index and middle fingers. Support the body with the palm of the hand as well as the thumb and little finger.

Venipuncture

Use a 27-gauge needle and 1 to 3-mL syringe to draw blood from the right jugular vein. Collection of up to 1% of body weight is acceptable in healthy patients.

Preventative Medicine

Injections

Intramuscular(IM)

Reasonably safe, most accurate.
Inject middle of muscle mass.

Ideal location –Pectoral muscle mass

Subcutaneous(SQ)

Large volumes can be injected, poor absorption.

Location:  Inguinal or precrural fold

Intravenous

Effective, narrow safety range.

Right jugular vein or brachial vein is most commonly used. 
Alternative option: superficial metatarsal vein.

Important medical conditions

Infectious Diseases

Non-Infectious conditions

Lutino cockatiels are at increased risk for health problems.

References

Adams M, Baverstock PR, Saunders DA, etal. Biochemical systematics of the Australian cockatoos (Psittaciformes: Cacatuinae). Australian J Zool 32(3):363-377, 1984.

Beynon P (ed). BSAVA Manual of Psittacine Birds. Ames, Iowa: Iowa State University Press, 1996. 7-9, 37. Print.

Blanchard S. Companion Parrot Handbook. Alameda, CA; PBIC, Inc; 1999. Pp. 70, 188, 237.

Carpenter J (ed). Exotic Animal Formulary. 3rd ed. St. Louis, MO; Elsevier Saunders; 2005. Pp. 278-279.

Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. Appendices I, II, and III. Valid from Apr 27, 2011. Available at: http://www.cites.org/eng/app/appendices.php. Accessed June 8, 2011.

Finkelstein A. Normal cloacal temperatures in multiple avian species. Proc Annu Conf Assoc Avian Vet;  2004. P. 383.

Doneley B, Harrison GJ, Lightfoot TL. Maximizing information from the physical examination. In: Harrison GJ, Lightfoot TL (eds). Clinical Avian Medicine. Palm Beach, FL: Spix Publishing; 2006.  P. 173.

Harcourt-Brown N, Chitty J (eds).  BSAVA Manual of Psittacine Birds, 2nd ed. Quedgeley, Glouchester: British Small Animal Veterinary Association; 2005. Pp. 4, 28. 

Harrison GJ, Harrison LR. Clinical Avian Medicine and Surgery, Appendix 4, Philadelphia; W.B. Saunders; 1986. P.662.

Koustos EA, Matson KD, Klasing KC. Nutrition of birds in the order Psittaciformes: a review. J Avian Med Surg15(4):257-275, 2001.

IUCN 2010. IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. Version 2010.4. IUCN Red List Web site. 2010. Available athttp://www.iucnredlist.org/. Accessed June 12, 2011.

Lafeber Company. The Cockatiel. Lafeber Pet Birds Web site. Available at: http://lafeber.com/pet-birds/species/cockatiel/ Accessed May 16, 2011.

Low R. Parrots in aviculture: A photoreference guide. Pickering, Ontario; Silvio Mattachione & Co; 1992. P. 82.

Morgan D. Bird Care. Neptune City, NJ: TFH Publications; 2005. Pp. 15-16, 17-18.

O’Malley B. Clinical Anatomy and Physiology of Exotic Species. Edinburgh: Elsevier Saunders; 2005. Pp. 156-157.

Tully TN. Birds. In: Mitchell M, Tully TN (eds). Manual of Exotic Pet Practice. St. Louis, MO: Saunders; 2008. Pp. 270-271, 276.


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Caring and working for the health of animals.

HOW TO BREED COCKATIEL     

:

To ensure the good health of breeding Cockatiels and their babies, a male and female pair should be unrelated, free of disease and birth defects, and between 2 and 5 years of age.

Nesting Requirements:

A cage for a pair of breeding Cockatiels should be a minimum size of 20" x 20" x 50", and should contain a nest box that is at least 12" x 12". Proper nesting material, such as shredded paper, pine shavings, and even molted feathers, should be provided.

Nutritional Requirements:

Cockatiels are hookbills, and as such, should be fed a varied diet consisting of seed, high quality pellets, and plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables. Breeding pairs should be treated with a calcium supplement to ensure proper egg development and to help the hen recoup nutrients lost in the egg-making process.


Egg Laying:


Female Cockatiels will lay their eggs within 3 weeks of mating. Like many other types of birds, it's not uncommon for Cockatiels to lay one egg every other day until they have all been laid. There are usually between 4 and 6 eggs in each clutch.


Incubation Time:

On average, Cockatiels incubate their eggs for about 20 days. This can vary by a couple of days in either direction, and is usually no cause for concern.

Hatchling Care and Weaning:


If Cockatiel babies are to be handfed, many breeders will let the parents raise the chicks until the age of about 2 weeks. They will then "pull" the chicks from the nest and place them in a brooder for handfeeding until they are weaned. Most baby Cockatiels can be weaned between the ages of 6 and 8 weeks by offering them millet, small bits of fruit and vegetables, and softened pellets.

COCKATIEL BABY GROWTH STAGES   Freckles - at different stages

 

 

LOVEBIRD   

Lovebirds were a largely unheard of species outside of Africa until Europeans wrote in books and journals about these strange brightly colored birds they had seen while in Africa.

The first Lovebird to be described in detail was the Red Faced lovebird in the early 1600, it was also the first lovebird to be imported into Europe during the 19th century since it was found in more widely in the wild than any of the other species.
Other species of lovebird were imported soon after the Red Faced except the Peach face which was thought to be variant of the Red Faced, although the Peach Faced lovebird was acknowledged by the British Museum in 1793. It wasn't until 1817 that the Peach Faced lovebird was recognized as a separate species of lovebird and were imported into Europe in the mid 1800's

Because lovebirds are an easy bird to keep as a pet and are very colorful they became favorites with people all over the world.
Between 1900 and 1927 four more species of lovebird were discovered by explorers from Europe: the Fischers, Masked, Black cheeked & Nyasa lovebird.


Since there are large amounts of lovebirds in petshops or from lovebird breeders aviary's it is no longer necessary to import lovebirds from Africa.
The wide variety of lovebirds around the world gives us an advantage over the Europeans who had to rely heavily of importation of lovebirds from Africa many years ago.
Birds bred locally are much more likely to be tame and healthy.

 

HOW TO BREED LOVEBIRD  

byAZAANATHAR

Welcome to tips for beginning breeders. This section of the site has been designed with novice in mind, though even experienced breeders can probably find something of interest here. The information here is based primarily on my experience with peachfaced lovebirds, though many of the ideas and principles will apply equally well for the other common species.


Spoon-feeding baby Nyasa lovebirds

I’ve organized this section by general topics. You can read through each one in the order they are listed, or simply pick and choose the ones that interest you. If you are totally new to breeding birds, I would strongly recommend that you read the first article "Do I really want to do this?" before moving on to other topics.

These articles are built around the way I house, care for, and breed my birds. Many breeders feel that their system is the only "right" way to do things, and to some extent I am guilty of that prejudice as well. However, I know breeders who manage aviaries which are very different from mine, and have terrific success. Sometimes these differences are based on simple preference, sometimes on the facilities, budgetary considerations, or simply the location. My experience has been working with a mid-sized indoor aviary in the American Midwest. A breeder managing a large outdoor aviary in Florida, California, or elsewhere in the world will certainly enjoy advantages, and encounter problems, very different from mine.

There is an enormous amount to learn about raising lovebirds, but you don’t need to learn it all at once. There is a lot of material here for you to sift through, and I hope to expand this section from time to time, as there is so much to cover, and even after eight years of breeding lovebirds I am still learning new things all the time. You can’t possibly learn everything there is to know before you begin, but it definitely helps to learn all you can

LOVEBIRD BABY GROWTH STAGES  



Lovebird babies - growth progress & co-parenting (picture heavy)


Well I believe eggs are done hatching now. We ending up with 4/6, not bad for their first clutch, I don't think. I candled the last 2 eggs, and although I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to candling, egg #4 looks totally empty... egg#6 I had a harder time telling. I think it's empty too. I will leave them in there for a little while longer and then I'll probably remove them so they don't get broken and make a mess.

The four babies are doing great so I thought I'd share lots and lots of pictures. They're freaky naked pink dinosaur-look is really starting to grow on me 

Here is Chick #1 (11 days old), who opened his/her eyes a few days ago. Something about the fact that he can look me in the eye now makes him 100X cuter.





Here is Chick #2 or 3 (8 or 9 days old), I can't tell them apart because they were only hatched a day apart and look nearly the same (to me). I think this one is the third because he isn't as dark as the other, although they're practically the same size.




And Chick #2... or 3 (8 or 9 days old). Ack.




And finally, Jellybean (4 days old)! He's so darn tiny. And the only one with an official name so far 




Rafiki continues to amaze me with her total acceptance of my poking around in the nestbox. When I knock and open it now she steps to the side and she doesn't mind me picking the babies up. I have been 'borrowing' the oldest one for short spans of time to get started with socializing as I'm taking the 'co-parenting route'. Mom & dad get to feed the babies but I will be taking them out and playing with them so they'll be tame.

So far I've mostly been spending time with Chick#1 and I'm finding the whole experience really cool. He snuggles right up in my fingers and seems quite comfortable while I blabber on to him about nonsense. He's a pretty good listener.
I'll be posting updates on how things go in the future 


  
 

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Thread: Lovebird babies - growth progress & co-parenting (picture heavy)

  1. 06-15-2011, 03:48 PM#1

    AZAANATHAR

    dandalyon is offline

    Egg's Cracking...dandalyon's AvatarNameAZAANATHARJoin DateFeb 2010LocationToronto, CanadaPosts326Thanks0Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts


    Lovebird babies - growth progress & co-parenting (picture heavy)


    Well I believe eggs are done hatching now. We ending up with 4/6, not bad for their first clutch, I don't think. I candled the last 2 eggs, and although I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to candling, egg #4 looks totally empty... egg#6 I had a harder time telling. I think it's empty too. I will leave them in there for a little while longer and then I'll probably remove them so they don't get broken and make a mess.

    The four babies are doing great so I thought I'd share lots and lots of pictures. They're freaky naked pink dinosaur-look is really starting to grow on me 

    Here is Chick #1 (11 days old), who opened his/her eyes a few days ago. Something about the fact that he can look me in the eye now makes him 100X cuter.





    Here is Chick #2 or 3 (8 or 9 days old), I can't tell them apart because they were only hatched a day apart and look nearly the same (to me). I think this one is the third because he isn't as dark as the other, although they're practically the same size.




    And Chick #2... or 3 (8 or 9 days old). Ack.




    And finally, Jellybean (4 days old)! He's so darn tiny. And the only one with an official name so far 




    Rafiki continues to amaze me with her total acceptance of my poking around in the nestbox. When I knock and open it now she steps to the side and she doesn't mind me picking the babies up. I have been 'borrowing' the oldest one for short spans of time to get started with socializing as I'm taking the 'co-parenting route'. Mom & dad get to feed the babies but I will be taking them out and playing with them so they'll be tame.

    So far I've mostly been spending time with Chick#1 and I'm finding the whole experience really cool. He snuggles right up in my fingers and seems quite comfortable while I blabber on to him about nonsense. He's a pretty good listener.
    I'll be posting updates on how things go in the future 

BUDGIES


Budgies

Budgie History


 

 

 

 

 

 


4 Votes


Welcome! Here you will learn all about budgie history, whether you are a beginner or a experienced owner!

A little history:

Budgies first originated in Australia. They are today found in no other place in the wild. The “normal” color for budgies is a bright green with a yellow head. These are and were always the only color budgie ever found in the wild. These colors help them camouflage in the leaves. Other color mutations were quickly seen and eaten before they had the chance to pass on their genes.

Budgies have two subspecies: the American Budgie and the English Budgie. It may not seem like it, but these two species are different in a numerous number of ways. The American budgie is slightly larger than the wild Budgie, but that is the only real difference between them, other than the fact that the American Budgie has more color mutations. The English Budgie is much larger than both other types of budgies. For a first, it has a larger forehead. Also these live from five to seven years with good care instead of fifteen years or more. But both the American and English budgie make very good companions.

The word “Budgie” is a shorter version of the actual name “budgerigar” which in a ancient Australian language means “good to eat” The Latin name of this specie of parrot is Melopsittacus undulatus. There are over five million individuals, and only of the wild ones. Budgies are found all over Australia, mostly deserts, farmlands, and woodlands. There are no actual threats, though large numbers of wild budgies die during drought. But budgies can very easiky reproduce, and that makes up for the drought loss. Budgies are sometimes found in huge flocks, flocks that can cloud up the skies. Budgies like to gather in even bigger flocks near or at watering holes. Budgies are normally very active during the day.

HOW TO BREED BUDGIES 

How to Breed Budgies

  •  byAZAANATHAR

Six Parts:Selecting the breeding pairSetting up the breeding areaAdding a nest boxBreedingCaring for the chicksFledging time

Budgie breeding may sound like a great hobby and it is! However you need lots of knowledge! You also need to make all of the budgies happy and healthy to make a happy family.


Part 1 of 6: Selecting the breeding pair

  1. Breed Budgies Step 1 Version 2.jpg

    1

    Find a suitable breeding pair. The pair must be older than 12 months old but younger than four years old. They should be healthy and have no deformities such as splayed legs or similar.
    • If you want eggs to eat, called infertile eggs, do not get a male budgie; just a female one and will lay eggs that you can eat.




  2. Breed Budgies Step 2 Version 2.jpg

    2

    Ensure that the breeding pair eats a healthy, balanced diet consisting of a good quality seed, fresh fruits and vegetables, grains, etc.


  3. Breed Budgies Step 3 Version 2.jpg

    3

    Wait for the budgies to adjust to their new surroundings for four weeks if they were purchased recently, and let them bond.



Part 2 of 6: Setting up the breeding area

  1. Breed Budgies Step 4 Version 2.jpg

    1

    Use a suitable cage. Choose one that is approximately two feet wide. The cage should be wider than it is tall (budgies fly horizontally), square-topped and have at least three doors: one for the food dish, on for the water dish, and one for you to easily access the cage. You might need to cut a small hole in the cage for the nest box (see below for a nest box).


  2. Breed Budgies Step 5 Version 2.jpg

    2

    Get all the items needed. You'll likely need: perches, a few toys for the male budgie, (do not put the toys to close that can cause the male to get hurt) ,feeder and water dishes, a cuttle bone, liquid calcium, or grit (two of these calcium sources at least), a mineral block (optional), extra food and water dishes to put on the ground when babies fledge, baby budgie formula, a small syringe, and a place for an orphaned baby budgie just in case.


  3. Breed Budgies Step 6 Version 2.jpg

    3

    Find a suitable avian vet (specializes in birds) if you haven't already done so.Keep all details, including a phone number, close at hand. You never know when something will go wrong, so when it does, call.



Part 3 of 6: Adding a nest box

Nesting budgies need a cozy and comfortable place to nestle into.

  1. Breed Budgies Step 7 Version 2.jpg

    1

    Buy or make a reasonably sized nest box. Good dimensions are: (9" (H) X 6" to 8" (W) X 6" to 7"(D) with an entry hole of 2 inches diameter).


  2. Breed Budgies Step 8 Version 2.jpg

    2

    Make a budgie coconut husk nest box. If you like, make your own nest box from coconut husks. A coconut husk makes an ideal choice as it is not only snug but also offers something to bite on should the budgie get such a notion.
    • Locate three coconut husks. They need to be roughly the same size.
    • Drill some holes in one of the husks. Make a hole in the top part of the husk, a hole on one side and another hole on the other edge.
    • Repeat for the other two husks.
    • Draw the husks together using bird-safe wire or string. Thread through the drilled holes.
    • Make a hanger hole at the front of the husk. Or, make it wherever it seems appropriate.
    • Hang the husk in the breeding cage.



Part 4 of 6: Breeding

  1. Breed Budgies Step 9 Version 2.jpg

    1

    Wait. Do not disturb the budgies. They will do their "thing" in their own time, but disturbing them and constantly hovering over them is not going to help. You may not catch them mating, but if you do, let them be. (If not, the female/hen will tell the male to get off and the mating will stop.)


  2. Breed Budgies Step 10 Version 2.jpg

    2

    When eggs come about, wait until each one is five days old and candle them.You can find candling steps online. Be very gentle and avoid touching the eggs. However, be aware that this step is optional; it's recommended that you do your research first before deciding.



Part 5 of 6: Caring for the chicks

  1. Breed Budgies Step 11 Version 2.jpg

    1

    Check regularly. The chicks will eventually hatch so it is very important that you check the nest box daily. Try to do this when the mother bird is out eating. Block the nest box entrance temporarily (for example, use a cut of newspaper). This is so the mother bird doesn't burst in and bite you.
    • Gently check the chicks over for injury, seeds/air bubbles in the crop (the sack at the base of the chick's neck).
    • Check that the crop is full (bulging).
    • Make sure no food is stuck inside the top of the upper mandible (top of the beak). If there is food, gently pick it away with the end of a matchstick or the quill-end of a feather.
    • Clean off poop and/or food from around the toes, beak, eyes, and other body parts with a soft, damp, and warm cloth.
    • Remove any dead bodies.
    Note that budgies have a very poorly developed sense of smell, so they will not care if you touch their babies.

    Breed Budgies Step 12 Version 2.jpg


  2. Breed Budgies Step 13 Version 2.jpg

    2

    Clean up! Chicks also mean poop, so the nest box must be cleaned out regularly. When the hen is out eating, remove the chicks and eggs to a small container lined with soft paper towels. Scrape out the soiled bedding and scrape away wet poops from the bottom of the nest box, then replace the nesting materials with fresh stuff. Gently replace chicks and eggs back. Make sure to be as quick as possible.


  3. Breed Budgies Step 14 Version 2.jpg

    3

    When chicks reach three weeks old, or close to that, provide them with one millet spray each day. Simply put it in the box. The mother bird will nibble at it and immediately regurgitate this for her chicks. The babies may also take a bite or two, mimicking their mother. This helps with weaning later on as chicks recognise the seed as being food straight away.



Part 6 of 6: Fledging time

  1. Breed Budgies Step 15 Version 2.jpg

    1

    When chicks finally fledge at the age of 28 - 35 days old, put a dish of seed and another separate dish of shallow water at the bottom of the cage. Though the father bird feeds them entirely at this stage, you want to encourage them to start eating solid food as soon as possible. It is also a great idea to provide a bowl of chopped fresh fruits and veggies - fledglings love to explore and try new things!


  2. Breed Budgies Step 16 Version 2.jpg

    2

    Provide chicks with a small hut on the ground so they can shelter from grumpy Mama. If you allow the hen to lay another round of eggs, she will often become aggressive towards the chicks. Since you want chicks to stay with the male bird as long as possible, give them a clean, empty upside-down ice-cream container with a door cut out of it, or a hamster igloo which you can purchase from the pet store. The baby will shelter in this.
    • Make sure that baby birds don't stay in there all day, Maybe take it out for a few hours a day so the baby birds can explore the cage and remember to eat and drink.


  3. 3

    Remove the nest box. You can let the hen go on for a second round but often it causes a lot of stress on the breeding pair. When the last chick fledges, remove the nest box immediately and seal the hole where the nest box was. Perhaps separate the mother bird from the father bird and chicks, as she may be a bit mean to her babies.


  4. Breed Budgies Step 18.jpg

    4

    Name your baby birds. You may not be able to know the gender of a budgie baby but when it is around 1 month, you can give it a appropriate name. Guess what, you made a budgie happy family!





Add your own method

Save

Tips

  • Feed fruits and veggies daily, especially when chicks fledge.
  • Provide a cuttle bone and mineral block.
  • Provide plenty of toys for them.

Warnings

  • Don't let budgies breed in nest boxes that are too small or anything not meant for breeding in. If eggs end up in a Snuggle Hut, log, cardboard box or the like that you put in the cage, replace with fake eggs and addle the real ones (shake them up fast).
  • Never colony breed. Colony breeding is when you breed more than one pair of birds in a single cage at a time. This often results in nest raids, dead/injured chicks, broken eggs, injured/fighting/dead parents, etc. Although wild budgies breed in colonies, they have many, many trees and hollows to choose from for nest sites, and the whole sky to fly around in.

Things You'll Need

  • A nest box (if making the coconut husk one: * 3 coconut husks, bird-safe wire or string, drill

  • A healthy, bonded pair of budgies

  • A large cage with the correct features

  • Extra food/water dishes to put on the ground

  • Suitable budgie toys

  • Hand-rearing formula, a warm safe place to keep orphaned baby budgies, and a syringe

  • The number of your favourite avian vet & contact details of the clinic

  • Space

  • Extra money ($500 + for each pair would be ideal, if something does go wrong, it is often very expensive)

 

 

BUDGIES GROWTH STAGES    

Keeping Budgies: From an egg to a fledgling

This is a simple little story of how a budgie egg is laid and goes on to become a fledgling ready to leave the nest.

It all starts, of course, with the male and female both being in breeding condition and mating.

The first egg is usually laid around 10 days after a successful mating and then every other day until the clutch is laid. The mother sits in the nestbox most of the time and the father feeds her. At between 18-23 days after the first egg is laid, the chick hatches.

     

   

The chick then grows rapidly as you can see by the following pictures. These pictures show the eldest chick on days 3, 7, 10 and 12 respectively.



 

By the time the chick is 2 weeks old he is starting to feather up nicely. He looks kind of prickly and weird to begin with, but soon starts to look like a 'real' budgerigar. He looks a lot different to his younger siblings and is very curious about everything that goes on around him. You can see him in the following photos at 13, 14, 16 and 22 days old.

 

 

At the age of 23 days, the chick has most of his feathers and only some small bits of down left. at 26 days you can barely notice any down at all on him. By the time he's 29 days old the down really doesn't show much at all and he is ready to start exploring the world outside the nest box. At 31 days he pretty much looks just like the older budgies you would see in a pet shop.

 

 

The chick is now old enough to start thinking about leaving the nestbox for good. A chick will normally do that somewhere between 28-35 days of age. He will then get fed by the male budgerigar until he's about 38-42 days, at which time you will be able to see that he's becoming very independent and managing to eat and drink on his own. When the budgie chick is around 6-8 weeks, you can start thinking about getting him a cage of his own, letting him join the gang in the aviary if you have one, or sell him if that's what you choose to do. Never ever sell or give away a baby budgerigar before you know for definite that he can feed and drink without his parents help.



===============Resource Box===========
AZAANATHAR keeps and breeds pet budgerigars.
Visit Adorable Budgies for information, pictures and forum 
http://adorablebudgies.co.uk
====================================

(this article reserved by AZAANATHAR

                 

 

ZEBRAFINCHES  

The zebra finch (Taeniopygia guttata) (formerly Poephila guttata),[2] is the most common estrildid finch of Central Australia and ranges over most of the continent, avoiding only the cool moist south and some areas of the tropical far north. It can also be found natively in Indonesiaand East Timor. The bird has been introduced to Puerto Rico, Portugal, Brazil and the United States.


Contents

  [hide] 


Habitat[edit]

Adult male at Dundee Wildlife Park, Murray Bridge, South Australia

Domesticated zebra finch, southern France

Captive male

Captive female

Male in Western Australia, Australia

Zebra finches inhabit a wide range of grasslands and forests, usually close to water.[3] They are typically found in open steppes with scattered bushes and trees, but have adapted to human disturbances, taking advantage of human-made watering holes and large patches of deforested land. Zebra finches — including many human-bred variants to the species — are widely kept by genetic researchers, breeding hobbyists andpet owners.

The zebra finch breeds after substantial rains in its native habitat, which can occur at any time of the year. Birds in captivity are ready to breed year-round. Wild birds are adaptable and varied in their nesting habits, with nests being found in cavities, scrub, low trees, bushes, on the ground, in termite hills, rabbit burrows, nests of other birds, and in the cracks, crevices, and ledges of human structures. Outside of the breeding time, brood nests are constructed for sleeping in.

Zebra finches are distributed over much of Australia and the Lesser Sunda Islands (Nusa Tenggara), which are north-west of Australia.

Life cycle[edit]

The life expectancy of a zebra finch is highly variable because of genetic and environmental factors. The zebra finch may reach up to five years in its natural environment. If they are kept caged, they normally live for 5 to 7 years but may live as long as 12 years,[4] with an exceptional case of 14.5 years reported for a caged specimen.[5] The greatest threats to zebra finch survival are predation by cats and loss of natural food.[3]

Subspecies[edit]

The two subspecies are:

  • Taeniopygia guttata guttata, the Timor zebra finch, extends from Lombok in the Lesser Sunda Islands or Nusa Tenggara in Indonesia to Sermata, in addition to coastal areas around the continent of Australia.
  • Taeniopygia guttata castanotis is found over the wide range of continental Australia.

The Australian race is sometimes split as chestnut-eared finch (Gould, 1837), Taeniopygia castanotis.

The morphological differences between the subspecies include differences in size. T. g. guttata is smaller than T. g. castanotis. In addition, the T.g. guttata males do not have the fine barring found on the throat and upper breast of T.g. castanotis, as well as having small breast bands.

Song and other vocalizations[edit]

Zebra finches are loud and boisterous singers. Their calls can be a loud beep, meep, oi! or a-ha!. Their song is a few small beeps, leading up to a rhythmic song of varying complexity in males. Each male's song is different, although birds of the same bloodline will exhibit similarities, and all finches will overlay their own uniqueness onto a common rhythmic framework. Sons generally learn the song of their fathers with little variation. Songs may change during puberty, but afterwards they are locked in for the life of the bird.[6] Scientific research at Japan's RIKENinstitute has suggested that singing to females is an emotionally rewarding experience for male zebra finches.[7]

Male zebra finches begin to sing at puberty, while females lack a singing ability.[4] This is due to a developmental difference, where in the embryo, the male zebra finch produces oestrogen, which is transformed into a testosterone-like hormone in the brain, which in turn leads to the development of the nervous system for a song system. Their songs begin as a few disjointed sounds, but as they experiment, they match what they sing to the memory of their fathers' song, and they rapidly mature into full-fledged songs. During these formative times, they will incorporate sounds from their surroundings into their songs, also using the songs of other nearby males for inspiration.

Male finches use their songs, in part, as a mating call. The mating act is usually accompanied by a high-pitched whining sound. They will also exhibit a hissing sound when protecting their territories.

Because zebra finch males learn their songs, they are often used as avian model organisms to investigate the neural bases of learning, memory, and sensorimotor integration. The zebra finch genome was the second bird genome to be sequenced, in 2008, after that of thechicken.[8] Their popularity as model organisms is also related to their prolific breeding, an adaptation to their usually dry environment. This ability also makes them popular as pet songbirds.

Diet[edit]

Zebra finches, like most estrildid finches, are primarily seed-eating birds, as their beaks are adapted for dehusking small seeds. They prefer millet, but will consume many other kinds of seeds, as well. While they prefer seeds, captives will also eat egg food. They also readily consume fresh foods, such as small bits of chopped lettuce, apples, and grapes. They are particularly fond of spray millet, and one or two of these small birds will eat a spray millet stalk within a few days. Zebra finches are messy and voracious eaters, typically dropping seeds everywhere. This behaviour spreads seed around, aiding in plant reproduction. The availability of water is important to this bird's survival, therefore the zebra finch will drink often when water is available and enjoys taking bird baths in a small, shallow bowl. A typical zebra finch may be plump, because it eats quite often throughout the day, but an overweight bird needs more exercise, not less food. Finches should always have access to fresh food and water.[3]

Breeding[edit]

This article contains instructions, advice, or how-to content. The purpose of Wikipedia is to present facts, not to train. Please help improve this article either by rewriting the how-to content or by moving it to Wikiversity, Wikibooks or Wikivoyage (September 2009)

This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (November 2009)

Female with two juveniles in New South Wales, Australia

Juvenile zebra finch

In the zebra finch, sudden bursts of gathering behaviours signal that a pair is ready to nest.[4] The pair will pull strings or plant leaves they can reach, and if no materials are available to gather, they will use feathers and bits of seed husks. Alfalfa or timothy hay is an acceptable nesting material, as it is closest to what is readily available in the wild. Any item they can use to build a nest will be deposited in a corner of the cage floor, or in their food dish. When these behaviours are noticed, a mating pair should be provided with a sturdy wicker nest about the size of a large apple or orange. This nest should always be placed in the highest possible corner of the cage, opposite the food dish, but near the normal night perch. Nesting finches will abandon a perch if it is across the cage, with the male showing he prefers to sit atop the nest while the female lays. During the nest building, however, both will spend the night cuddling inside the nest.[4]

When they accept the nest shell and begin using it each night, they should be provided with an ample supply of very soft bits of short string and leaves. They prefer items only a couple of inches long and will use nearly any type and colour of soft material; longer bits of string or nesting material can tangle around the finches or nestlings and cause distress that will lead to strangulation or even death. The nest shell will be packed with everything they can reach for at least a week before laying begins.[4]

The number of eggs ranges from two to seven eggs per clutch, with five being the most common number.[9] In captivity, some birds lay larger clutches.

Males and females are very similar in size, but are easily distinguished from one another, as the males usually have bright orange cheek feathers, red beaks (as opposed to the orange beaks of females), and generally more striking black and white patterns.[3] The beak is sometimes the only way to tell the gender of a zebra finch, as sometimes the orange cheek colouring is faded or non-existent. Offspring from a similarly coloured nesting pair may sometimes vary from the parents' colouration, with nestlings varying from plain grey to completely white. These variations are usually due to mixed breeding between finch types somewhere down the family line, especially in pet store birds. However, the orange cheeks are a stubborn indication that a young zebra finch is indeed a male and the cheeks begin to appear when the young are about two months old. Young zebra finches will also have black beaks, with the colouring coming in at puberty, though it begins changing at age one month.

The chicks will hatch according to the laying time of each egg. It is common to have one or two eggs remaining unhatched as the parents begin the task of feeding the nestlings. Though it is preferable to leave nests alone after the egg-laying begins, once hatching begins, a breeder might find it useful to make daily checks into the nest to correct problems early, such as larger chicks sitting on and smothering smaller ones, thus increasing the number of chicks that eventually fledge. The time from laying until a fledgling adventures outside will vary with each clutch, but generally good eggs will hatch within 14 to 16 days of laying and young will begin to venture out within about three or four weeks of hatching, and will look full-grown in about three months. Breeding age is six or more months. Zebra finches are usually excellent parents and will readily take turns sitting on the nest and bringing food to the young.

While the female is laying, only her mate will be allowed in the nest. Allowing the pair to start a new family while the first clutch is still in the cage will overly stress all the birds in the family. The male of the breeding pair will not allow any other birds near the nest while eggs are being laid. It is advised that newly fledged birds be removed and placed into a separate enclosure to prevent aggressive actions of the adult male who will likely try to beat up younger birds which are seen as competition for the female's attention.

HOW TO BREED ZEBRA FINCHES  

Steps

  1. 1

    Buy a pair of Zebra Finches. (males have red markings on their cheeks, females don't) 




  2. 2

    Buy a cage, 18 inches long and 12 inches wide is good.


  3. 3

    Have a nest. a covered one will be best.


  4. 4

    Use a Tupperware container large enough two fit four finches in it, for a water container. (they will take baths in this also) 


  5. 5

    For food give them seeds, apples, cucumbers and grass seeds.


  6. 6

    Put perches in the cage. They should be thin as your finger and not too close together, otherwise the finches will just jump from perch to perch and not get enough exercise.


  7. 7

    Put nesting material in the cage (feathers, dry grass) they will put this in their nest.


  8. 8

    If the female stays in the nest for a long time, she may have eggs. The eggs will take two and a half weeks to hatch. Don't handle the chicks, they are very fragile.


  9. 9

    The babies will come out at around three weeks, and both parents will continue to feed them, until they are ready to be on their own, which around six weeks.


  10. 10

    Congratulations! You have raised your own Zebra Finch babies! Give yourself a pat on the back!

 

ZEBRA FINCHES BABY GROWTH STAGES 


Step 1: First day, Small and very vulnerable. (Hatchling) http://images.sciencedaily.com/2006/09/0... 

Step 2: Doubled in size (second day) 

Step 3: Day 3-5 Will start to make a quiet "ff ff" sound for food. (Nestling) 

Step 4: At around 1 week their eyes will open. (Will start to grow feathers)http://www.efinch.com/Gape/mgf_top.jpg 


Step 5: Chicks will continue to grow and more feathers will appear... http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2023/17984... 

Step 6: 3-4 weeks of age chicks will fledge from the nest. (Fledgling) 

Step 7: Parents will continue to feed the chicks for another week or so until they eat on their own at about 4-5 weeks of age. The chicks are greyish in colour when they fledge. (Juvenile)http://i286.photobucket.com/albums/ll106... 

Step 8: 6 weeks of age Chicks will start to lose their 'juvenile' colour and grow adult feathers. Their beaks will turn orange. They will be feeding themselves and become independent. (adult)http://l.yimg.com/ck/image/A1154/115445

 

SILVER DIAMOND DOVE 

The Diamond Dove (AZAANATHAR) 

The dove predominantly exists in areas near water but which are lightly arid or semi-arid in nature, being Central, West and Northern Australia. They are one of Australia's smallest pigeons along with the Peaceful Dove. They have been spotted occasionally in Southern Australia in parks and gardens when the centre of Australia is very dry.


Contents

  [hide] 


Description[edit]

They are small pigeons with a length of 19 to 21 centimeters or 9 to 11 inches.[2] Regardless of the gender, they have white spots and black edges on their wings, orange eyes and red eye-rings. The genders look similar except the female's eye ring is less vivid and has more of a brown colour to the plumage. The male's head, neck, and breast are light blue-grey. The bill is a dark grey colour. The abdomen is a creamy colour while the back and tail is a brown-grey colour. The legs and feet are pink. The juveniles have a light grey bill; the iris and eye ring is fawn in colour; the feet and legs are grey; the breast is grey and they do not possess any white spots on their wings.

Behaviour[edit]

The Diamond Dove can often be seen on the ground with a toddling run. Their flight is strong and direct and can be undulating. The wings can make a whistling "frrr" noise when flying.

Diamond doves tend to be seen in pairs or small groups feeding off the ground. They feed off seed mostly from grasses. They will also eatants.

The doves tend to breed after rain but mostly in spring in Southern Australia. nests are usually built from interwoven grasses and/or twig. They are of fragile construction. Two white eggs are usually laid and incubated for 13 to 14 days. Chicks are usually fully feathered and flyingby two weeks.

They are known to have a variety of calls. The calls sound mournful, slow and have a falsetto quality to them. Two calls consist of two long coos followed by a pause and then a long, short and long coo. Sometimes they call two long coos. The alarm coo consists of a few short but loud coos.

Conservation[edit]

Australia[edit]

Diamond Doves are not listed as threatened on the Australian Environment Protection and Biodiversity Conservation Act 1999.

State of Victoria, Australia[edit]

  • The Diamond Dove is listed as threatened on the Victorian Flora and Fauna Guarantee Act (1988).[3] Under this Act, an Action Statement for the recovery and future management of this species has not been prepared.[4]
  • On the 2007 advisory list of threatened vertebrate fauna in Victoria, the Diamond Dove is listed as near threatened.[5]

In captivity[edit]

Diamond doves can be kept and bred well in captivity and some lines have been bred for so many generations as to be considered domesticated. They spend a considerable amount of time on the ground and require a wide area to walk around. Wire-bottomed cages are not desirable; also, the floor of the cage should be kept clean since they will be walking on it. The cage should also contain perches spaced widely enough for the bird to fly safely.

Diamond doves should be encouraged to eat a variety of greens and vegetables in addition to their seed diets. They swallow seeds whole and should be given access to grit to help digest the seeds. In winter, the birds suffer in cold and should not be placed near drafts; a heating pad or basking rock (such as those sold in pet stores for lizards) can be used as a supplemental heat source, and is greatly enjoyed by many diamond doves.

Diamond doves build nests in open scoops, and will appreciate open-topped nest baskets. They will nest in whatever they find, however, including the seed dish. The mating behavior begins with a repeated call, usually by the male but sometimes by a female if kept singly. The male will display his tail feathers by dipping his head low and raising his tail, spreading the long feathers like a fan towards a desired female while uttering a two-note coo. The pair will stay together for long periods, greeting each other with low coos and vibrating their wings, or symbolically preening each other with rapid light pecks.

Generally, they must live in pairs or flocks, as their need for companionship is high. Single diamond doves can bond to humans if acquired when relatively young, but this requires a commitment of time and attention from the owner because they require months or years to tame and will then require significant companionship time with their owner, much like a parrot. Once tamed, the dove is a sweet and gentle pet, who greets its owner with happy coos and will perch on the finger or shoulder. They will also preen their owner with rapid light pecks, and accept being stroked gently in return. Care must be taken to avoid the bird thinking of its owner as a mate, as this leads to egg-laying and excessive dependence on its owner's companionship, and is stressful to the bird. This can be avoided by not being affectionate with the bird while it is engaging in nesting or display behaviors.

Diamond doves live for 15–25 years in captivity. In the wild they only live for about 3–5 years

HOW TO BREED SILVER DIAMOND DOVE   

The Diamond Dove – The Easy Breeding Bird
by AZAANATHAR


Anyone who has seen the Diamond Dove will agree that it is an attractive bird. The books all say that the Diamond is completely sociable with other birds, except possibly with other small doves, and that this dove is a very easy bird to breed. The impression one gets from the books is that one could hardly prevent them from breeding – even by withholding nest bowls – "they will nest in the seed dishes."

For nearly three years I could not have agreed less with such assessments. I bought Diamond Doves – waited – bought new ones – waited – and waited again. No eggs even. Since that time I have raised many dozens of Diamond Doves. Now I must agree that the book writers are correct. The Diamond Dove is a very prolific bird; indeed, a healthy, true pair can hardly be prevented from breeding.

Why was I – and many others I have talked with – unsuccessful? After discussing the Diamond Dove in general, I will conclude with some thoughts on the probable causes of failure with these birds.

Native to Australia. The Diamond Dove ranks as the most popular bird of Australian origin after the Budgie, Cockatiel & Zebra Finch. Like these others it is thoroughly domesticated. All imports from Australia have stopped so long ago that the bird you might buy has been in captivity for dozens of generations.

During a visit with Dave West of Montebello, California, in December, 1971, I learned from him when the ancestors of our Diamonds must have arrived. West says that the first shipments of Diamonds (normal colored birds) were imported from Australia into Los Angeles about 1925. They fetched a fancy price in the neighborhood of $125 a pair. Not many were ever imported since they proved to be so prolific that the demand was soon met by Los Angeles area aviculturists. Unless there were East Coast importations that we know nothing about, this means that the many thousands of Diamond Doves in the country today, and perhaps those of Europe as well, are all descended from these original shipments imported some 50 years ago. The silver-colored mutation of the diamond was first imported from Australia some 20 to 25 years ago. Dave West recalls that only two shipments were ever received, some months apart; a total of only 40 to 50 birds. The price ran about $70 a pair. In one shipment the males had very prominent and fleshy rings around the eyes. In the other the males had eye rings not much more developed than the females. In one shipment the silvers were reputed to be simple recessive to the normal colored bird. In the other the silvers were supposed to be recessive & sex-linked. West is not aware that this sex-linkage was ever proven out by breeding experiments. Should anyone have other information on importations of Diamond Doves I would be very interested to hear of it.

Maintenance of the Diamond Dove is very simple. Drinking water & grit are essential, of course. Dave West feels that providing broken-up pieces of cuttlebone is also an essential. Small millets seem to be the favorite seed. I provide a wild bird mix with no sunflower seed, which has a variety of small seeds & a little milo. A finch mix is satisfactory but more expensive. Diamonds definitely will eat greens (Romaine lettuce, in my case) especially when feeding babies. They have been observed to eat soaked bread & corn on the cob which has been provided for Cockatiels.

Whereas I have never seen a Diamond take a water bath, sunbathing is a passion. Birds kept indoors will be deprived of this, and might benefit from cod live roil to supply the vitamin D the bird might have gotten from the sunbathing (assuming, perhaps incorrectly, that birds can absorb this vitamin as humans do).

Housing is not a problem since Diamonds can be kept with the finch collection. I have never noted Diamonds to be aggressive towards other birds than their own species, or other small dove species. The problem is more likely to be the other birds bothering the Diamonds. They are quite compatible with Cockatiels, for instance, but a Cockatiels idle chewing can make short work of a Diamond’s nest!

The Diamond should, in my opinion, be considered an aviary bird. They are not active birds – not given to flitting from perch to perch – and it might be anticipated that they would grow too fat if given no opportunities for free flight at all. I have no doubt they could, and are being, cage bred; but considering that this bird is given to swift & direct flight, they would appear to be better provided for with at least six feet of flying room. Probably an indoor cage four feet long, with perches only at opposite ends, would serve.

So far as temperature is concerned, the Diamond is surely as tough as the hardiest member of your collection.

Breeding the Diamond Dove is rather predictable. The main feature of courtship is the male bowing & cooing before the hen, with his crop moderately inflated with air; he spreads his elevated tail with each bow & coo.

Virtually any nesting receptacle will serve. I presently use plastic berry baskets from the market. The basket is mounted on an L-shaped bracket, such that the basket is held about four inches from the wall. This protects the tail of the sitting bird. The basket is provided nearly full of dried grass, or with a folded & shaped piece of burlap. Higher nests are preferred to lower, and if a branch or piece of palm can hide the nest from direct view, so much the better. In a planted aviary, wire netting platforms secured in the bushes might serve as bases for nests.

A pair that is ready to nest will persist whether suitable nests are available or not. I have noted birds to crawl into finch boxes (whose holes had been enlarged by chewing Cockatiels) where they could not turn around. One pair nested in a bowl of sunflower seeds. This year a pair nested successfully atop a clump of grass, barely seven inches from the ground.

Two pure white oval-shaped eggs will be laid; the second two days after the first. The adults cove the eggs from the start, but do not sit tight before the second egg is laid, causing both eggs to hatch together on the thirteenth day. The blind, down-covered babies grow rapidly & leave the nest about two weeks later. The parents who share in all phases of the breeding operation, are quite attentive to the youngsters after they leave the nest & will feed them for a week & more thereafter. Fidelity to their fledgling babies makes the Diamond valuable to the foreign dove breeder as foster parents, since many foreign doves neglect babies that have left the nest.

By the time one clutch leaves the nest it is likely that the hen will be laying again. Some pairs will produce two babies a month with great reliability; skipping only a month or two during the year. The silver Diamonds, depending on the strain, may be very likely to produce only one baby in a nesting, the other egg being clear. Because the silvers seem less robust in general, most breeders mate silvers to split-silvers (normal colored birds that had one silver parent), which mating will produce 50% silvers & 50% split silvers. The cooing of these doves – especially maturing & unmated males – may at times become fairly persistent, but to me ha snot been unwelcome. It is not likely that the neighbors would object.

Colony breeding: My experience has been that with more than one breeding pair per pen there will soon appear four or more eggs in a nest. Even though there are more than enough nests to go around, two or three hens choose to lay in the same nest; more eggs result than can be covered (even though two birds may sit at the same time) and each egg is chilled in turn before it can hatch. For this reason I have found colony breeding about useless & prefer to keep one pair per pen. Given a superabundance of nests perhaps this can be avoided. Even then, unless banding is resorted to (budgie bands are just the right size, by the way) you will shortly lose track, or perhaps never know which birds produced which babies.

Fighting will be observed when more than one pair are kept together, but no real harm ever seems to come of it.

Babies left with their parents become breeding pairs with amazing quickness. I have recorded hens laying at two months; though four or more months is more likely.

Colors of the Diamond Dove. The original, or normal-colored Diamond Dove is mainly a grey blue above with pearl grey undersides. The silver mutation is grey above, without the blue tints of the normal, but with the same light grey undersides. There are silvers seen occasionally which are significantly lighter in color than most – approaching a white. I am not aware that these lighter shades have been established as a true breeding strain. Yet, it is noted that certain European bird sellers offer a "new mutation" of the silver (variously called "scintillating," "glittering" and "brilliant") for stiff prices. In color transparencies, they appear to be simply light-colored silvers. Several other color mutations have been seen.

Dave West once bred a pure white "silver" (but not an albino), which died before it could be reproduced. The late Bob Dalton of Arrow Bird Farm, Fontana, California told me of being shown a white Diamond.

Paul Norine of Citrus Heights, California reported (March 1972, ACBM), with an accompanying picture, a light buff colored, pink-eyed "albino," bred in his aviaries from normal colored parents. At last word (letter dated 3/9/72) Norine ha snot been able to breed from this bird.

Recently I have heard of a strain of pied Diamonds that existed in the Los Angeles area, but I have not been able to assure that they still exist. These were normal colored birds splotched with white.

It seems inevitable that many other variations on the basic silver & normal colored Diamonds exists in unknown private aviaries.

Sexing the Diamond Dove may or may not be easy. Mature males are likely to have a more prominent & fleshy eye ring than any female, but not all males are so equipped. In the normal colored Diamond the female will generally be more brownish across the back. A hen in fine laying condition will have the pubic bones spaced an eight of an inch or more apart. The mature male will have no space between the pubic bones, ordinarily. Immature birds may have these bones move about a good deal from day to day. A bird which coos a good bit is probably a male. If it displays, it certainly is a male. The size of the diamond spots has been mentioned as useful in sexing, and while these spots do have variable sizes at times between birds, I have never been able to correlate this with sex. It should be stressed that all observations will fail if the birds are immature or much out of condition. For sexing purposes I consider a bird much less than a year old as immature & likely to fool me.

Why aren’t your Diamond Doves producing? Naturally you have made sure the birds are healthy & well fed & protected from undue disturbance. If your Diamonds are not breeding the most likely reason is that you do not have a true pair. Incompatible pairs that breed slowly, or not at all, are found but are very rare. Consider this test: Very young birds will have eye rings of a greyish orange color. Reasonably mature birds, unless badly out of condition (when their ceres fade to a pink flesh color), will have a bright red eye ring. If your birds have nice red eye rings, and have been that way for, say six months – and still have not bred – they surely must not be a pair. Should you live in colder climates & keep the birds inside for part of the year, perhaps you need to be more tolerant of slow developments and wait for one full summer after you are sure the birds are fully matured.

This further advice has been offered to me. If your non-producing "pair" is not heard to coo much they are both hens. If much cooing is heard but no eggs result, they are both males. Two males will display to each other whereas two hens will not.

Another problem may be that the birds are "over the hill." One breeder I spoke with said he bred his doves continuously until the production began to decline, and then sold them off. One could end up with such "exhausted" birds; not that Diamonds are short-lived at all. Dave West has a pair of Diamonds that he had ten years ago, and which still produce; only now they have more of clear eggs & single clutches than before.

Two pairs maintained at all well should produce. If yours do not, while getting reasonable care, why not replace them with other stock that might find your care more to their liking?

Maybe I should be more cautious & admit that unidentified chance events may help or hinder in quiet ways when the timing is right. Let me refer you to the words of Mr. Jean Delacour, an aviculturist of world renown, writing in the Avicultural Magazine (Jan-Feb 1972, p 32); "Luck plays a great part in bird breeding successes. One cannot make a poor pair nest; but of course it is easy to stop a good one from doing so."

The Diamond Dove requires less "luck" than many other birds.


SILVER DIAMOND DOVE GROWTH STAGES 

Growth of a Diamond Dove Baby

Baby June
Age 10 days
Hatched June 24, 2007 

Baby Development

Many visitors to this site have asked questions about the growth and development of young babies. This section now includes daily photographs and length measurements of a diamond dove baby for the first three weeks of it's life.

Background of Parents

The male, Australia, was purchased from a breeder in New Mexico and was received in February 2006. He was banded and was two years old when received. The male was purchased as a caretaker bird for China a very old hen who had lost her mate and her two best friends, but China died two weeks before the male arrived.  (See the page A Tribute to China).  The male lived without a cage for a year and a half and roosted on some oak branches located near the bird cages. He always picked the same spot allowing his stools to fall on sheet plastic purchased to protect the furniture. He obtained his food and water by going in open cages.

Tasmania was purchased as a mate for Australia in December 2006. Although Tasmania was interested in Australia from the start, she was rejected by him as an intruder. After a few months passed then Australia did become interested in her but by then she had become angry with him and resisted his advances. In February 2007 a cage became free when the white Eurasian collared dove left for another home and Tasmania moved into the cage and took over the empty nest immediately. She laid her first two infertile eggs soon after she had the nest. Australia was put in the cage after a week but they fought so he was removed. Several trials were attempted and then one day we saw Tasmania shake her wings when Australia passed by on the outside. The cage was opened, he went in and a sometimes violent courtship followed. After some time Tasmania laid two eggs and they incubated them. Both eggs were fertile but the embryos died just before the end of the incubation period. After some time a second clutch was laid and and this page is the story of the second baby in that clutch. He hatched out on June 24, 2007.

Growth Records 

The graph below displays the daily growth records from age 0 to age 21 days which is about the time most babies are allowed to stay in the parent's cage


Do note the change in size of the baby is not well represented in the photos as the photos at the younger ages were taken closer to the dove than those taken at the older ages. This procedure provided a greater amount of detail in the younger bird. However the length of the baby is given for each day 

Day 1June 24, 2007

The first baby of this clutch was too weak to feed and tossed form the nest. The second baby hatched out on the morning of July 24, 2007. The parents kept it covered except for feeding. Day 2June 25, 2007

The parents kept the baby covered except for feeding. Day 3

 

June 26, 2007 

The baby sometimes opened its eyes. The parents again keep the baby covered except for feeding.

Length: 4.1 centimeters (est.)

Weight: 8 grams (est.)Day 4June 27, 2007 

The babies eyes are now open except when sleeping after being fed. Pin feathers can be seen over most of the body

Length: 6.0 centimeters.

Weight: 9 gramsDay 5June 28, 2007 

The pin feathers have grown longer and the feather vanes can bow be seen at the end of the pin feathers.

Length: 6.2 centimeters.

Weight:14 gramsDay 6June 29, 2007 

Most of the wing feather vanes can now be seen, but the head is still covered with pinfeathers. The dark colored primary flight feathers are now visible. The tail feathers are just starting to grow out.

Length: 6.4 centimeters.

Weight: 14 gramsDay 7June 30, 2007 

The baby is left uncovered all the time. He is fairly inactive and sleeps after being fed.  Does not beg for food.

Length: 7.3 centimeters

Weight: 16 grams
Day 8July 1, 2007 

The baby now has some fully opened
feathers on his head. He is now very active and is walking around the nest, sometimes looking over the edge. Preens his own feathers for the first time.

Length: 7.5 centimeters

Weight: 16 gramsDay 9July 2, 2007 

The baby continues to be active and often begs for food. The tails has extended the bird's length another centimeter . 

Length: 8.5 centimeters

Weight: 17 gramsDay 10July 3, 2007 

Frequently begs for food. Continues to be very active. 

Length: 9.5 centimeters

Weight: 19 gramsDay 11July 4, 2007 

Took out of nest to measure and put on carpet. The baby flew up about three feet and then across the room to the couch. 

Length: 10 centimeters

Weight: 19 grams                                                         Day 12July 5, 2007

Now flies around cage, chasing parents to ask for food. There is some pecking of seed on the cage floor but does not eat any. 

Length: 11.5 centimeters

Weight: 22 grams

Day 13July 6, 2007 

Roosted on bar last night with parents. 
Continues to peck at seed but does not eat any, continues to chase parents for food. 

Length: 11.5 centimeters

Weight: 23 grams Day 14July 7, 2007 

Allowed to go to the sun window with the other birds. They taught the baby how to peck bread. Then soon he was able to peck some seed. Made its first peeps. 

Length: 12 centimeters

Weight: 23 gramsDay 15July 8, 2007 

Continued to try and peck seed, mother preened the baby, slept with parents on the perch at night. 

Length: 12.5 centimeters

Weight: 24 grams Day 16July 9, 2007 

Pecking bread and cheese, trying to
peck seed, starting to have success,
roosted on perch with both parents at
night. 

Length: 14 centimeters

Weight: 25 gramsDay 17July 10, 2007 

The female laid her first egg of the next
clutch late the previous evening. Baby
now helps with the incubation of the new egg. Sometimes the baby is left alone with the egg.

Length: 14 centimeters

Weight 25 gramsDay 18July 11, 2007 

Now able to peck seeds very well. Often sits on the egg with the mother.

Length: 14.5 centimeters

Weight: 27 gramsDay 19July 12, 2007 

The second egg was laid in the afternoon.  Baby helps with incubation but slept with the father on the perch.

Length: 15 centimeters

Weight: 27 gramsDay 20

July 13. 2007 

When the cage door is left open goes out and eats cheese, noodles and bread with the other birds. Peeps while flying.  Explores room and wanders on carpet.  Rarely seen begging for food anymore.   Continues to return to the cage to sleep with the parents.

Length: 16 centimeters

Weight: 28 grams 

Day 21July 14, 2007 

No change. Sleeps on perch with father and helps with egg incubation

Length: 16 centimeters

Weight: 27 grams (note decrease) 

 

 

 

 

 

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